More Issey Miyake Than Ever!


Satoshi Kondo made his debut with the brand’s spring-summer 2020 collection and we are more than happy to say that it felt as the most Issey Miyake show in a while.


It started as a regular Paris Fashion Week show, three models in nude underwear started circling the runway, without –what it seemed– any specific direction, just a graceful wander. But, to our amazement, in the blink of an eye regularity disappeared from the scene and three transparent hoops were lowered from above to delicately stretch horizontally stripped dresses over the arms-uplifted models, apart from hats to complete the looks. The music switched to fill the venue with cheerful yet romantic sounds and the models did what everyone watching the show would have wanted to do, they started dancing and bouncing around, and so did the gowns thanks to their classic Miyake flexibility.


The runway became a colourful dancefloor with parachute-like pieces, wide-leg trousers, long-hemmed dresses, and fringes and nets twirling all over the place like a breeze of fresh –and vibrant-coloured– air; it even was a skatepark for a few moments, with grinning models on electrically powered skateboards going from side to side and harmoniously clashing with the stated idea of carefree dancing. The room was filled with delight, pleasure, and excitement, no matter the corner you were looking at.

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As a whole, the collection was fairly classic, with some pieces almost reaching what is basic and casual, but it was delivered in such a powerfully simple and uncomplex way that it is nonsensical to not consider the garments a new and essential creation. People were enjoying themselves, joining hands, dancing, bouncing, as if they were inviting you to their little party in the middle of the runway. Satoshi Kondo broke the grounds of the typical Parisian show with his debut and he implicitly told us in the best Miyake way that joy is fundamental.


Photography by: Fréderique Dumoulin.

Main Image: @felixfelixfashionmode.

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