Haute Couture week has just begun hand in hand with July and we already had a major disappointment concerning the House of Dior.
Its creative director, Maria Grazia Chiuri, set a particular theme for this autumn collection. Architecture of Parisian streets: The Caryatids, also known as sculptures of women that serve as pillars or columns in old buildings and that “have always shouldered the weight of the world,” according to Maria. She tried to shine a light on this not recognized muses, on women without names that carry the world – but to us, she failed with a completely unrelated approach.
With a totality of 65 – fairly repetitive – looks, 58 of them were black. This choice of colour palette made the collection seem bleak, dull, dead you may say. It had nothing to tell. If her purpose was to enrich the presence of these muses who lived unnoticed in the dark, why would she pick an almost all-black palette to work with? She could’ve implemented bold, fresh colours, something new to truly reach the point she was trying to make. Dior is known for its elegance, its grace, and when we imagine the collection it could’ve been – in connection to this theme – it’s not really far from those remarkable characteristics, it wouldn’t have compromised the House’s spirit… at least not as much as the closing of the show did. Don’t even get us started on that topic. There are no words, to be completely honest.
Furthermore, nobody can really tell this a “Maria Grazia’s” as one would recognize a “Galliano’s” when it comes to Dior pieces. The creative director is yet to find her own style within the brand, as we can see in her past collections regarding Haute Couture as well as Ready-to-wear. She is constantly experimenting, but this trial and error is ripping apart one of the biggest houses in the industry’s prestige.
On the other hand, she indirectly kept Dior’s original essence going on some pieces and cuts, but still, it’s not enough to save the show.
All in all, the “brand new” Dior Haute Couture collection is sadly not much to look at, not without criticising it from beginning to end. Despite this, we still hope Maria Grazia Chiuri finds her own style and makes it work successfully soon, because if not… We will have to wish for Dior to get better… If you know what we mean.
Photographs by: Alessandro Lucioni.
ARGENTINA | Sworn Translation Student (Eng/Spa).